I am witnessing the 6.30 am class at CVN Kalari, Thiruvananthapuram. Kalaripayyattu is one of the martial arts from the state of Kerala aka God’s own country. The boys are wearing langhottis (loin cloth), oiled, look shiny, lean and mean like black panthers. The lamps have been lit by the gurukkal, the deities and the sword have been decorated with flowers and the students have offered their pooja. The place, the students, their outfits and the gurukkal make me feel like I have gone back to ancient times. The floor is made of red mud, there are lots of weapons like sticks, sheilds, swords, spears, wooden daggers arranged neatly against a wall.
The gurukkal has asked the students to start the warm up in malayalam. I notice that he is already criticizing some students to put in more energy in those legs, kaal kondhanum mone. The warm ups themselves look spectacular, with students having to kick the leg so high up while walking that it should touch the shoulder. Like a military parade, but the leg goes all the way up, like a standing splits. That is the aim and most students look very close to doing it.
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