I saw this temple on the way from Trivandrum to Kovalam. This is the first time I came across a temple dedicated to Parasurama. This is an interesting small temple. One of the smaller sub temples within the main one had a fish as the god. I had not seen a fish before as a deity. It could be the deity representing the first avatar of Vishnu, Matsya avatar that rescued the Veda, plants and animals. When I walked around the temple, I noticed there were a lot of soap boxes tied with a string and hanging from the ceiling. I guess the soap boxes contain written prayers or wishes to be fulfilled by Parasurama.

Parasurama, is the axe wielding sixth avatar of Vishnu. Although he is an avatar of Vishnu, he is not worshiped like Rama or Krishna. I guess Kerala would be an exception. According to Kerala legends, he is the creator of Kerala and Kalaripayattu. He created Kerala by throwing his axe into the ocean from Gokarnam to Kanyakumari. The water receded up to the spot where it fell. This new land is said to be Kerala or Parasuramakshetram.

Parasurama commanding Lord Varuna to make the seas recede.

I have been reading up about Kalaripayattu from the book called ‘when the body becomes all eyes’ by Phillip B. Zarrilli. I thought the title was tacky but then I read that it is a literal translation of a Malayalam phrase meyyu kannakuka like Lord Brahma, the thousand eyed. I do not like this book as there is no flow in the way it is structured.  I bought it as this was the only book that I found on Kalaripayattu and has some historical tidbits. This post is mainly sourced from this book.

Kalaripayattu is derived from two major traditions, Tamil traditions dating from the early sangham culture and the Sanskrit Dhanur Veda traditions. Although Dhanur Veda means science of archery, it encompasses all martial arts. Indian epics Mahabharata and Ramayana follow Dhanur Veda for the specifics of combat and warfare. Although many martial arts and a form similar to Kalaripayattu have been practised since ancient times in India, Kalaripayattu as a form primarily to Kerala is said to have been established during the eleventh or twelfth century AD. This style of Kalaripayattu is also practised in adjacent Tulu speaking Coorg district of Karnataka.

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I am witnessing the 6.30 am class at CVN Kalari, Thiruvananthapuram. Kalaripayyattu is one of the martial arts from the state of Kerala aka God’s own country. The boys are wearing langhottis (loin cloth), oiled, look shiny, lean and mean like black panthers. The lamps have been lit by the gurukkal, the deities and the sword  have been decorated with flowers and the students have offered their pooja. The place, the students, their outfits  and the gurukkal make me feel like I have gone back to ancient times. The floor is made of red mud, there are lots of weapons like sticks, sheilds, swords, spears, wooden daggers arranged neatly against a wall.

The gurukkal has asked the students to start the warm up in malayalam.  I notice that he is already criticizing some students to put in more energy in those legs, kaal kondhanum mone. The warm ups themselves look spectacular, with students having to kick the leg so high up while walking that it should touch the shoulder. Like a military parade, but the leg goes all the way up, like a standing splits. That is the aim and most students look very close to doing it.

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